Visiting Verde Hot Springs

Nestled in an off the beaten path of Verde Canyon, 2 hours south of Flagstaff, Az, emerges a semi- primitive hot springs.  Semi primitive because getting to it is a challenge.  The dirt road dips and swells while passing through the now defunct town of Childs Power plant.    At the bottom, the road opens up to a wide sandy beach.  High bushes and tall oak trees line both sides of the river. Remnants of old camp fires linger, but the area is clean. This was the easy part at least for me.  The challenge I found was crossing the freezing water.   However, the pristine wilderness and scenic views made it all worthwhile.

We found a spot to park the camper truck underneath an oak tree.  As we jumped out of the truck, a dark-haired man in his early 20’s approached us and announced,

“Weather report says a major snow storm is due in 24 hours.” 

“ Seems hard to believe considering how nice it is, but this is November. We’ll just have to enjoy it while we can. Let’s go check out the hot springs.”  I laughed, eager to visit the springs. 

Mark and I followed wooden arrows staked along a narrow dirt trail that led into the Verde river.  Mark was ahead of me and walked into ankle high water, then waited on top of rocks about a quarter of the way across.    As soon as I walked into the icy cold water, I knew this could might take awhile!

When I reached the first set of high rocks, I just stood there till warmth traveled to my lower body.    I watched in dismay as Mark effortlessly trekked through the icy water.   I rushed out again to only slosh another twenty yards to the next high ground.  My feet froze so quickly and now my legs felt like lead weights as I moved in slow motion.   I stopped again on some protruding rocks.

I mumbled to myself to keep moving.  I knew it would all be worth it. 

With one last effort, I pushed ahead ten more yards and hit the sandy shore.  Mark, was waiting for me, so we could walk the last 1/4 mile to the hot springs together.   A narrow dirt path followed along the base of the canyon wall back downstream.    We came upon concrete steps that led down to 3 pools.  One was hidden in a cave, another was on the front concrete deck that overlooked the Verde River and a third one was enclosed by 4 walls and no ceiling. 

Quickly we tore off our clothing to check out the tubs.

The pool hidden in the cave is small and the water is murky.  I don’t recommend this one. We moved quickly from there.  Next we tried the pool enclosed by four ten feet high concrete walls without a ceiling.   Artists had painted erotic messages inside.  One entire wall was a painting of a naked lady flying through stars, who’s long blonde hair flowed behind her like a horse’s mane. The water felt deliciously warm, probably about 100 degrees.  After awhile the walls felt confining and we gradually meandered over to the third tub.

This last tub was a rectangular basin that overlooked the Verde River.   Oak trees climbed the 1,000 foot canyon walls.  As I sank down, my arms and legs tingled with delight as the hot water swirled around me.  I laid my head back against the lip of the concrete tub and inhaled the crisp smells of autumn. This felt like a little bit of heaven. Fresh air, clean warm mineral water and a lovely view. What else could a person want?

Rumor has it that in the early 1900’s the mafia built a hotel and brothel around these thermal pools.  There used to be palm trees lining the entrance next to the concrete steps.  With only a hint of yesteryear left, today, we enjoy the spring fed pools while soaking up the last of Indian summer.   As shadows slowly creep up the canyon wall and the suns dips lower in the sky, we know it is time to leave.

Only I wasn’t looking forward to trudging through the icy cold river again.    Reluctantly, I put on dry clothes, floated back down the trail with rosy cheeks and a warm heart.   At the river, I inhaled deeply, stepped into the cold water and pushed myself across.    Again, it just didn’t matter how quickly I moved because my feet froze halfway over to the closest high ground.   I ended up doing the same dance across the river. 

However,  it was all worth it because by the time we arrived at our camp, I felt rejuvenated.  And by morning, we awoke to gently falling snow.

If you enjoy adventure and being outside, this is a special hot spring deal you won't want to miss.  The best seasons to visit are May through October.